Sometimes, diamond polishers make changes to a diamond by creating extra cuts to fix issues like inclusions or cavities. It may solve the initial issue, but this quick fix creates a new one—poor light return. So, what’s the right move? Instead of going for those cuts, the polisher should re-shape the diamond’s girdle, eliminating the flaws while maintaining top-notch light performance. Often, this step gets skipped to preserve certain weight categories, like keeping it at 1 carat or more. But, especially with recycled diamonds, there’s often enough weight left to correct these flaws properly.
What about weight loss during these corrections? If the diamond’s surface has been adjusted with minimal extra cuts (painted facets), the weight reduction isn’t drastic, making these stones relatively easy to fix. Still, keep in mind the importance of thresholds—dropping below 1 carat can impact value significantly. Now, for diamonds with both dug-out and painted facets, it’s a trickier situation. For example, a diamond that looks flawless from the top might have numerous irregularities underneath, revealed when inspected from different angles.
Here’s another challenge: bezel-set diamonds can conceal such issues until they’re removed. That’s something to remember during evaluations.
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When dealing with chipped or outdated styles like Old European cuts, it gets more complex. Jewelers may decide to polish these diamonds lightly, preserving their original look, or recut them into a modern design to boost market appeal. The decision largely depends on market trends and pricing goals.
The process of assessing weight loss in such stones can get complicated when they feature a mix of tricky attributes, like overly flat or steep surfaces, unusual culets, or tables. In these cases, treating the diamond like raw material can help. By using mapping technology, you can calculate weight retention more precisely.
Another thing to note: cavities often come with hidden surprises like internal feathers, making these issues harder to spot and deal with. As a reminder, an old Dutch saying asks, ‘Under a hole lies what?’—highlighting the uncertainty of these repairs.
Sure, restoring diamonds has its difficulties, but savvy jewelers can boost profits by accounting for the risks discussed here. With many Baby Boomers and their families selling off heirlooms, recycled diamonds are an increasing opportunity. Education is key to capitalizing on this trend.
As the world continues to change, jewelers must seize new chances to stay ahead. The saying ‘one man’s trash is another man’s treasure’ has never been more relevant.
